ROCK PAPER SCISSORS
How Keith Haring’s collaborative graphics and textiles for Malcolm McLaren & Vivienne Westwood’s 1983 Witches collection fittingly resembled the ancient petroglyphs carved on Newspaper Rock... Haring’s graphics, resembling a sort of hieroglyphic graffiti, were wonderfully similar to the vibrant carvings found in San Juan County, Utah. The Archaic, Anasazi, Fremont, Navajo, Anglo, and Pueblo cultures created these images during both the prehistoric and historic periods. Depicting over 650 rock art designs featuring animals, human figures, and symbols, it has been suggested that the rock was used as a communication hub amongst travelers. In Navajo, the rock is called Tse' Hone which translates to a rock that tells a story, much like the subversive messages Haring expressed through his art and Westwood and McLaren conveyed through their textiles…
The diabolical hip hop styling of the collection featured neon graffiti hues, devilish white trainers customized with three tongues and primitive pagan graphics such as the Diablo print which included multiple representations of the devil’s name and a dog-headed figure for example... Curiously, McLaren believed the notion that authenticity and magic existed only in ethnic, pre-Christian, pre-industrial cultures. Witches was the ideal convergence of Haring’s modernly primitive designs, McLaren’s references to those who practice witchcraft, zombies, medicine men, dog-headed people and the devil, inspired from Jean Kerboull’s book Voodoo and Magic Practices, and Westwood’s brilliant experimentation with drape and cut. It is now considered one of the most influential and significant fashion collections of the 20th Century, especially when considered as a precursor to the giant that streetwear has become today.
“The Witches Collection of Autumn / Winter 1983 was Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s final collaboration for their label World's End before Westwood started her eponymous fashion label. It came following a trip to America to meet Keith Haring, whose fluorescent, graffiti-inspired designs would feature on a number of the pieces. The collection was influenced by Haring’s ‘magical, esoteric sign language’ (which also inspired its eerie name) and early-1980s American hip-hop culture.” • Courtesy of The V&A