IN BLOOM

How the cast of supermodels parading down Marc Jacobs’ 1993 Perry Ellis runway could have easily disappeared into the frescos decorating Pompeii’s Casa del Frutteto, as if covered in orchard camouflage. Built sometime before the ancient Roman city was razed by the 79 AD eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the building is embellished with mezzo-frescos depicting an urban garden. The vision is complete with fluttering birds, ornamental trees bearing lemons, strawberries, pears, cherries, plums, and a snake (a symbol of prosperity) sheltering in a fig tree… Though Jacobs’ vision was ultimately received in a shroud of despair, an air of romance permeated the layers of draping plaids, nighties and oversized cartoon adorned t-shirts… Juxtaposing the melancholy of grunge, were dreamy pieces created from a nursery of silk chiffon printed with lemons, pears and cherries, sweetly resembling the walls of Casa del Frutteto.

Jacobs designed the seminal collection for the American sportswear brand as a nod to the Seattle grunge scene and the subversive, anti-fashion youth culture emerging on the streets. To the tune of Sonic Youth, Nirvana and L-7, Jacobs covered the catwalk with cashmere thermals, plaid shirts, granny dresses, Dr. Martens and knit beanies. While it was a moment of rebirth for the young designer, the press was horrified. Renowned fashion critic Cathy Horyn wrote, “Grunge is anathema to fashion…” Following the show, samples were sent to Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain, yet, adding insult to injury, Love later told WWD that they burned them.. Jacobs was subsequently fired from his position. But decades later, in a turn of events, Cathy Horyn retracted her original sentiments, writing “The only thing that I can find wrong, now, with his effort, is its timing.” Having each survived their own fires, Pompeii’s House of the Orchard rose from the ashes after a multimillion dollar restoration and Jacobs resurrected his 1993 collection for production after nearly 20 years. The Italian Ministry of Culture calls the evolution of the archaeological site a “story of rebirth and redemption,” a most fitting title for Marc Jacobs’ brilliant career as well… • All Collages by Moi