STARGAZING
Portrait of Elsa Schiaparelli • 1936 • Cecil Beaton • National Portrait Gallery, London
How Elsa Schiaparelli and the Ancient Egyptians shared an everlasting curiosity and admiration for the night sky... Presumably, Schiaparelli’s fascination with the heavens began when her uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli, a prominent astronomer, recognized that the “beauty spots” on her face resembled the shape of Ursa Major, the constellation known as the Big Dipper or Great Bear. The constellation became her personal emblem and appeared embroidered by Lesage on the famous Zodiac Jacket from her Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique collection, as well as in the shape of a brooch created for her by Jean Schlumberger. In addition to constellations, whimsical designs of stars, moons and zodiac signs adorned her fashionable garments as well as her Jean Michel Frank interiors… Created thousands of years earlier, however, similar motifs can be found decorating the walls, pillars and ceilings of the recently refurbished Dendera Temple Complex in Egypt. Dating to the Roman period, 1st Century A.D., the complex is known for its lavishly detailed astronomical ceiling carved in low relief in the outer hypostyle hall of the temple. Shades of blue highlight scenes of astronomical figures, constellations, planets and symbols of each of the twelve zodiac signs… Though these zodiac signs are of Babylonic-Greek origin and were not found in Egypt until it was conquered by Alexander the Great in 332 B.C., the glittering stars of the blackened night sky continued to inspire well into the future… More to come…
Detail of the Zodiac jacket featuring embroidery by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions
The Tenth Hour of the Night at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Paul Smit
The Zodiac jacket featuring embroidery by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City
View of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Detail of the Zodiac jacket featuring embroidery by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Image courtesy of Elsa Schiaparelli : Empress of Paris Fashion by Palmer White
Setting of the Sun in Hathor Temple at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Detail of the Zodiac jacket featuring embroidery by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City • Image courtesy of Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli by Dilys E. Blum for the Philadelphia Museum of Art
Big Dipper and Draco on Astronomical Ceiling at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Portrait of Elsa Schiaparelli depicting the “beauty spots” on her face in the shape of the Big Dipper, as identified by her uncle, astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli • Image courtesy of Shocked : My Mother, Schiaparelli, and Me by Patricia Volk
Detail of the Zodiac jacket featuring the Big Dipper constellation embroidered by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions
Elsa Schiaparelli & Salvador Dalí photographed together at an event in which she is wearing her Ursa Major brooch designed for her by Jean Schlumberger • 1949 • Image courtesy of Schiaparelli & The Artists by André Leon Talley, Suzy Menkes & Christian Lacroix
Partly Cleaned Vulture Goddess Nekhbet in Dendera's Hathor Temple • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Paul Smit
Schiaparelli’s Zodiac Surrealist Necklace designed by Jean Clément • Circa 1938 - 1939 • Image courtesy of Costume Jewelry in Vogue by Jane Mulvagh
Elsa Schiaparelli wearing her Ursa Major brooch designed for her by Jean Schlumberger • 1949 • Image courtesy of Elsa Schiaparelli : A Biography by Meryle Secrest
Birth of the Sun in Hathor Temple at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Schiaparelli’s perfume shop on Place Vendôme featuring Jean Michel Frank’s birdcage and a starry sky upholstered chair • Image courtesy of Classic Chicago Magazine
Souls Worshipping the Moon at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Paul Smit
Zodiac Sign Aries at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Outer Hypostyle Hall of Hathor Temple at Dendera • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Good Wind From the South at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Paul Smit
Detail of the Zodiac jacket featuring embroidery by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions
Front and back views of the Zodiac jacket featuring embroidery by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Images courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions
Marlene Dietrich wearing Schiaparelli’s Zodiac Jacket in her suite aboard The Normandie • November 19, 1938 • Image courtesy of Martell Gallery
Detail of the Zodiac jacket featuring embroidery by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions
Zodiac Sign Taurus at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Sagittarius on Astronomical Ceiling at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Detail of the Zodiac jacket featuring embroidery by Lesage • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions
Scorpio on Astronomical Ceiling at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Zodiac Sign Pisces at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Background Image : The Waxing Moon and the Eye of Horus at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk | Photograph referenced in collage : Elsa Schiaparelli “Crystal Gazing” as seen in the 1918 rendition of The Psychology of the Future | Collage by Sarah Aaronson
Zodiac Sign Aquarius at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Model wearing a celestial evening gown with fringed cape from Schiaparelli’s 1935 Summer collection • Image courtesy of Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli by Dilys E. Blum for the Philadelphia Museum of Art
Leo on Astronomical Ceiling at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Mick Palarczyk
Evening Gown with Astrological Belt • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City
Detail of astrological belt featuring glyphs of Jupiter and Mars • Autumn / Winter 1938 - 1939 Haute Couture Cosmique Collection, often referred to as the Zodiac or Astrology Collection • Elsa Schiaparelli • Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City
Snakes on Astronomical Ceiling at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Paul Smit
Goddess Supporting the Sky at Dendera • Detail of the Astronomical Ceiling in the outer hypostyle hall of the Hathor Temple • 1st Century A.D. • Roman Period • Dendera Temple Complex, Egypt • Image courtesy of Paul Smit
