THE ROSE WINDOW
How Rei Kawakubo’s Spring 1991 Collection for Comme des Garçons found inspiration in the stained glass rose windows from Chartres Cathedral and Laon Cathedral, built in France between the 12th and 13th centuries. The majority of the collection was made in a monochrome palette of white, black, and pearly grays created by adding calligraphy ink to the fabric dye, but it was left to the printed finale pieces, replicating the Gothic style stained glass windows of medieval churches, to illuminate the show’s title ‘Ink Dye, Stained Glass.’
East Stained Glass Window • Circa 12th - 13th Century • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon • Laon, France • Image courtesy of Aidan McRae Thomson
“Since founding Comme des Garçons in 1969, the Tokyo-based designer Rei Kawakubo has consistently defined and redefined the aesthetics of her time... Kawakubo’s Spring / Summer 1991 Collection deviated from the outsized silhouettes, consistent black palette, and intentionally destroyed garments that characterized her 1980s collections. Rather than obscure the body with excess fabric, Kawakubo used chiffons, mousselines, and stretch synthetics in long, narrow silhouettes that followed and revealed the form. The collection was designed to project calm and lightness in response to global conflict during the period.” • The Metropolitan Museum of Art describing one of their very own garments from the collection. • All runway images courtesy of Vogue
South Porch, Chartres Cathedral • 1885 • Thomas Matthews Rooke • The British Museum, London
Detail of one of the east stained glass windows • Circa 12th - 13th Century • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon • Laon, France • Image courtesy of Manuel Cohen
Detail of one of the east stained glass windows • Circa 12th - 13th Century • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon • Laon, France
Dancer Brenda Daniels modeling an ensemble by Comme des Garçons • Spring / Summer 1991 Ink Dye, Stained Glass Collection • 1991 • Christian Moser • Image courtesy of Six Sixth Sense by Comme des Garçons : Issue Number 7
Stained Glass Window • Circa 12th - 13th Century • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon • Laon, France
Printed garments from the Comme des Garçons Spring / Summer 1991 Ink Dye, Stained Glass Collection featured on the cover of Six Sixth Sense by Comme des Garçons : Issue Number 7 • 1991 • Christian Moser
Jumpsuit featuring prints of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon’s stained glass windows • Comme des Garçons Spring / Summer 1991 Ink Dye, Stained Glass Collection
Detail of a Stained Glass Window • Circa 1194 - 1220 A.D. • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres • Chartres, France • Image courtesy of Fine Art America
Detail of a jumpsuit featuring prints of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon’s stained glass windows • Comme des Garçons Spring / Summer 1991 Ink Dye, Stained Glass Collection
North Rose Window • Circa 12th - 13th Century • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon • Laon, France
North Rose Window • Circa 12th - 13th Century • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon • Laon, France
Dancer Brenda Daniels modeling an ensemble by Comme des Garçons • Spring / Summer 1991 Ink Dye, Stained Glass Collection • 1991 • Christian Moser • Image courtesy of Six Sixth Sense by Comme des Garçons : Issue Number 7
North Rose Window • Circa 1194 - 1220 A.D. • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres • Chartres, France
Rose Window in the North Transept • Circa 1194 - 1220 A.D. • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres • Chartres, France
South Rose Window • Circa 1194 - 1220 A.D. • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres • Chartres, France • Image courtesy of Manuel Cohen
Skirt featuring prints of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres’ stained glass windows • Comme des Garçons Spring / Summer 1991 Ink Dye, Stained Glass Collection
Rose Window in the South Transept • Circa 1194 - 1220 A.D. • French Gothic • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres • Chartres, France
