CARTIER’S CACHE
How Cartier utilized actual Ancient Egyptian artifacts for their one-of-a-kind pieces during the wave of exoticism and heady Arabian Nights romance that swept fashion and style in the early decades of the 20th Century. Cartier struck up a relationship with Egyptian artifact traders in Paris and produced contemporary jewelry that included bits of actual antiquities. Placing these miniature treasures into settings with details inspired by ancient Egyptian flora, fauna, and architecture, and adorned with diamonds, platinum, gold and other precious gems, created some of the most unique Art Deco jewels boasting true archaeological integrity. Commissioned pieces for socialites including Cole Porter’s wife Linda Lee Thomas and Lady Abdy for example, incorporated a faience amuletic bead in the form of the eye of the falcon god Horus, a faience fragment of the goddess Isis from the Ptolemaic Period C. 305-30 BC and a faience figure of Sekhmet, the lion goddess, dating to the 21st-22nd Dynasty to name a few…
“This group of important Egyptian revival jewels, all made by Cartier in the 1920s, turned a spotlight on one of the most engaging and enduring influences on 20th century jewelry design: the 1920s vogue for all things Egyptian that developed into a craze bordering on obsession… After the momentous discovery of the boy king Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, Cartier began to incorporate antiquities into their Egyptian-style jewels, producing a spectacular series of one-of-a-kind masterpieces. The jewels made over a short period of time, were limited by the availability of the ancient treasures around which they revolved; they are believed to number 150 in total. These cerebrally beautiful and strikingly original compositions, possessing a powerful and imposing presence, are amongst the most rarefied of Cartier jewels from this period. They capture the spirit and spirituality of ancient Egyptian beliefs, the sense of mystery and majesty of the jewels, and they carry with them, in their fragments of the past, the mystical amuletic quality of ancient Egyptian ornaments.” • Vivienne Becker for Sotheby’s