LA DOLCE VITA
While Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 1993 collection was the epitome of a 90’s inspired ‘Summer of Love,’ it was also a not-so-subtle nod to the women celebrated on canvas (and in some cases wood) by some of history’s most preeminent painters… Though the supermodels strutting down the runway appeared to have resurrected the likes of Talitha Getty and her jet set crowd, the design duo’s collection was also a rebirth of some of art’s most celebrated female muses. The quilt like textiles were a collage of printed images depicting Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera (Spring) and Birth of Venus and Leonardo da Vinci’s Ginevra de' Benci and Portrait of an Unknown Woman. Gustav Klimt’s heroines Adele Bloch-Bauer I (The Lady in Gold) and Judith II (Salomé) were also featured in the show as their images adorned pendants worn around the necks of several of the cat-walkers.
“Though some models were dressed like dandies and pirates, the prevailing aesthetic was “rich hippie.” Botticelli paintings were collaged together and covered in pearls; Liberty-style florals were appliquéd with lace; hats dripped with feathers; and sari fabrics were used for suiting.” wrote Laird Borrelli - Persson for Vogue… With artistic influences ranging from Early through High Renaissance to the Viennese Secession Movement, the collection begs the question, ‘What do these portraits have in common?’ Here we have the symbolism of love and beauty represented in Botticelli’s goddesses, the enigmatic strength behind the eyes of da Vinci’s female sitters, and the curious hands, representing the intelligence of Klimt’s muses… Perhaps the common thread in these femme fatales is their sexuality, modestly suggested in some paintings and quite blatant in others. How appropriate that they should all make cameos in Dolce & Gabbana’s ode to the intellectually and sexually liberated flower children of the 1960’s… • All runway images courtesy of Vogue